Despite the huge number of types and varieties of roses, there are general pruning rules for them. Our experts have detailed them for you:

  • rose eyes, or growth buds, are located in the leaf axils, the cut is made no higher than half a centimeter from them at a slight slope;
  • work should be done only with a sharp tool, since a cut with a blunt pruner can severely damage the shoot, up to its death;
  • if the core of the shoot is brown, then it should be cut to a healthy white core;
  • it often happens that large and well-developed shrubs after pruning release several shoots from one point at once, in this case the strongest of them should be left, and the rest should be cut off;
  • when two branches intersect (and rub against each other), one of them is cut below the intersection point — the branches should not be allowed to touch;
  • completely remove diseased or damaged shoots, as well as weak and thin growths. Pruning is carried out to a healthy shoot or to ground level;
  • there should be a distance between the stems — this will allow them and the foliage to have full access to air and light, and will also save the bushes from powdery mildew, rust and black spot, which result from stagnation of air inside the bush.

Such a universal pruning method is especially relevant if you do not know which variety of the flower queen grows on your site.


Rose pruning dates

Roses are pruned several times a year.

  • Do spring pruning from late winter to mid-March. Swelling growth buds will serve as a signal to start work. If young growths are frozen, they should be cut to dormant buds.
  • Spend summer pruning throughout the entire flowering period — remove wilted buds. This will help to avoid rotting of the petals, excessive consumption of nutrients for unnecessary seed formation, and also stimulates growth and re-blooming in remontant varieties. Cut the inflorescence along with the shoot to the nearest strong bud. At the very end of summer, do not remove wilted flowers, then new shoots will not grow and will not freeze in the autumn-winter period.
  • Autumn pruning is carried out in November. Most often, it is necessary for plants that grow in a site with strong winds. At the same time, shorten the longest branches by 15-30 cm. Such pruning will help to avoid strong rocking of the rose by the wind. In the north of our country, where all varieties of roses require protection from frost, cut the branches to a height of 20-30 cm — then it is more convenient to cover them.
  • Remove root shoots

    Some varieties of roses are grafted onto a rootstock selected from wild types of culture. During the growing season, young shoots form slightly below the place of budding. These are basal shoots of the stock, which must be removed to the ground. However, you should not cut the shoot at ground level, as this will lead to increased growth of new root shoots.

    The nuances of pruning different types of roses

    Don’t cut vigorous floribundas too much, as this can deplete them. But even weak pruning will lead to the development of thin branches. The best option in this case would be a combined one, when at the beginning of flowering some shoots are pruned strongly and others weakly. The bushes will put out a lot of root shoots and will bloom longer.

    In the spring, in the second year after planting, it is advisable to shorten all the main basal shoots by a third of their length, and cut the side stems to 2-3 buds, leaving about 15 cm from the base. Cut large branches on old bushes completely or up to 3-5 buds in such a way as to open the middle of the bush.

    In remontant and hybrid tea varieties of roses, flowers appear on the growths of the current year, so they need moderate-strong annual pruning. The largest stems are cut to 4-6 buds (about 20 cm from the ground), less powerful — up to 2-4 buds (about 15 cm from the ground). This type of pruning gives the best results. When the shrub begins to age, remove two or three stems annually.

    When you prune remontant and hybrid tea rose bushes, you stimulate the growth of strong basal shoots and form a spherical bush with an open middle and evenly spaced branches.


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