Tomatoes can grow with little or no care, but then the result will be appropriate. And in order to get a large crop of tomatoes, plants need to provide maximum comfort. So, what needs to be done to please the bushes with an abundance of quality fruits?

Do you want this year’s harvest to be better than all the previous ones? Choose a productive variety, carefully follow agricultural practices and use the tricks that you will learn about from this article.


Without a good variety, a large crop of tomatoes cannot be obtained. Varieties and hybrids are divided into:

  • Superdeterminant — designed for open ground, they require almost no maintenance, but they also give a small yield.
  • Determinate — form 3-6 fruit clusters and stop growing. These are the most productive tomatoes for open ground, they have time to ripen even in a cold short summer.
  • Indeterminate — tall vines that never stop growing. These are the most productive tomatoes for greenhouses. They can also be grown outdoors, but growth will have to be limited by pinching off the top.

If you need to get an unprecedented crop of tomatoes, choose F1 hybrids. They have hybrid vigor, which is manifested by disease resistance and higher yields than varieties.

Location selection

The most productive tomatoes are planted on the south side of the site, placing rows from east to west. With this scheme, the bushes are well lit, grow and ripen faster.


The most productive varieties of tomatoes in the multitude form stepchildren — lateral shoots from the axils of the leaves. Stepchildren strongly thicken the bushes. Because of them, the yield is reduced significantly, because the plant devotes a lot of effort to the formation of green parts. Stepchildren must be pinched off. This should be done as soon as they appear. Then you can do without secateurs and serious, long-term non-healing wounds. It is important to leave a short stump — in this case, a new process will not appear in the same place.


Tomatoes like moderate regular watering. While the bushes grow and bloom, they need to be irrigated at least 2 times a week. When the fruits begin to pour, the volume of irrigation water is increased. But as soon as the tomatoes begin to ripen, watering must be stopped — otherwise the entire crop will crack and rot.

It is very important to pour water on the soil under the root. It should not fall on the bushes themselves, so that outbreaks of infections do not start. It is best to do drip irrigation or dig a trench 10 cm deep between the rows and direct the hose into it.

top dressing

The most productive varieties of tomatoes take a lot of nutrients from the soil, so they need fertilizers with a full range of micro and macro elements. It is convenient to purchase complex mixtures for root and foliar dressings and use them in the following sequence: 2 root, then 1 for leaves, etc. It is very useful to mulch the bed with old humus or peat. The mulch will protect the roots from heat and drying out and will provide additional nutrition, increasing the yield of tomatoes.

Disease prevention

The main trouble of tomatoes is the phytophthora fungus. It appears on the leaves and then moves to the fruit. For prevention, after harvesting, cut off the lower leaves from the first brush. Then the bush will be better ventilated and the risk of infection will decrease. It is useful to use biological preparations with valuable bacteria for preventive purposes: trichoderma, hay bacillus.

Bush formation

In the open field and greenhouse, tomatoes must be tied to pegs or a trellis. If it is planned to lead a bush in two or three stems, the stepsons that have grown next to the first brush are left, and they are also tied up.

Additional pollination

If the tomatoes are actively blooming, but not fruiting, there is a way to make them hurry up. Shake the bush in the morning. Then the flowers will be better pollinated, the fruits will ripen a week earlier, and the overall yield will increase.

Acceleration of maturation

At the end of August, to speed up ripening, take the stem close to the soil and pull up slightly to tear the roots. After that, green tomatoes that are not going to turn red will ripen in a few days, as the vine will actively send nutrients to them.

stem cutting

In early autumn, when the weather turns cool and the fruits stop ripening, find the main stem. At a height of 3-5 cm from the ground, make a through vertical cut. Insert a spacer into it. After that, the nutrients from the leaves will begin to flow not into the roots, but directly into the fruits. As a result, the tomatoes will ripen in a matter of days.


Tomatoes are harvested as they ripen, starting from the bottom, and then rising higher. It is important to have time to remove all formed fruits before freezing. Tomatoes die at a temperature of + 7 C. Carefully follow the weather forecast. When the forecasters promise a decline, pick all the tomatoes, put them in boxes and put them in a house or greenhouse — they will ripen there.


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