If at least one climbing rose is planted in the garden, this corner, like a magnet, will attract attention. An exuberant cascade of attractive colors will decorate a pergola, archway, wall of a garden house, gazebo or other landscape small forms. This plant is in perfect harmony with climbing ornamental perennials, the tandem of weaving roses + clematis looks especially impressive. In this article — features of the cultivation and classification of climbing roses.

Climbing roses: some differences

The appearance of climbing roses at first glance differs in some ways. On some bushes flexible shoots develop, reaching a height of more than 3-4 meters, other varieties form strong strong bushes, barely exceeding 2 meters. There are differences in the intensity and timing of flowering.

Curly roses can be divided into 2 groups:

  • Climber climbing roses — a group of roses with long, stable shoots, with repeated flowering, the diameter of one flower is equal to or greater than 4 cm. The flowers are collected in loose inflorescences. Climber hybrid varieties are bred using showy hybrid tea roses, popular floribunda varieties or large-flowered grandiflora. Climbers usually bloom 2 times per season. Powerful bushes look spectacular on a trellis, sometimes they can grow completely without support — hard shoots easily retain their spatial shape.
  • Roses of the Rambler group (Rambler) are plants with a single type of flowering, forming lush inflorescences from 5-10 flowers. Rose rambler climbing forms flexible shoots up to 4 meters or more, from which a sprawling bush grows (up to 1.5 m) in diameter. Flowering — no flowers are formed on the growth of the current season. The shoots of Rambler roses are flexible, thin, allowing them to be laid out along a figured support to obtain a certain shape of the bush.

In terms of flowering roses, Rambler and Climber are quite different, the characteristics of each group must be familiarized with before acquiring seedlings, because the compositions in the garden landscape must be created so as to shine all season. If you plant a climbing rose in the foreground that blooms once and for a short time, then after flowering this corner of the garden will become dull and boring, or you will have to plant companions in the composition: climbing letniki (morning glory, sweet pea, azarina, rhodochiton) or bright flowering lianas — perennials.

Climbing roses: planting and care

Of particular importance is the planting of climbing roses in open ground, the implementation of the rules of agricultural technology fully affects the health and harmonious development of plants.

First you need to choose a site for growing Ramblers or Climbers. The mass of regrown flexible shoots with buds and flowers weighs quite a lot, so the plants need to establish reliable supports, otherwise the rose bush will look sloppy, and the wind can break branches and flowers. When planting plants near the walls of garden buildings, it is necessary to maintain a distance of at least 60 cm from the building. Climbing roses planted in one row should be 1.5-2 m apart from neighboring bushes.

Roses prefer to grow in sunny areas protected from the wind, but there are exceptions among groups of climbers and ramblers — varieties that grow well in partial shade.

Wind protection should be thought out before planting plants on the site, and very carefully, it’s a shame to look at bushes with dangling flower tassels, buds and leaves if the plants are constantly in a draft.

Planting climbing roses in areas with wet, overly saline, sour, dense, rocky soil is not recommended. Even during the planning of placing a rose garden in the garden, it is worth checking the quality of the soil, determining the height of the groundwater level and the algorithm for its seasonal changes.

For roses, loose, fertile loamy soil with a slightly acidic reaction is preferable. Plots with excessively dense soil are preliminarily dug up, sand is added during digging to correct the structural composition of the soil. To deoxidize the site, chalk or lime is added, and dolomite flour has also proven itself.

Soils before planting roses can not only be structured, but also enriched with nutrients by introducing mature compost, humus, and coniferous soil for digging. Fresh manure (mullein) is not recommended before planting roses in flower beds.

How to prepare the soil and hole for planting

Supports for roses with long climbing shoots are installed before (or during) planting.

For planting seedlings of climbing roses, individual pits are prepared with dimensions:

  • Length — 50 cm.
  • Width — 50 cm.
  • Depth — from 50 to 70 cm, while taking into account the volume of the root system and the mandatory norms when planting climbing roses.

Important! The root neck of climbing rose seedlings is buried in the soil by at least 10 cm.

When digging holes, the upper fertile layer of earth is removed, which is laid aside. On the basis of this soil, a substrate will be prepared to fill the planting hole. The deposited soil is mixed with turf, leaf and humus soil, as well as peat and sand. Then 2/3 of the volume of the planting hole is covered with the substrate, forming a mound at the bottom. The seedling is placed on the top of the formed mound, the roots are spread along the slopes, making sure that the root collar is 10 cm below the soil level. Then the sinuses are filled with soil, living it around the seedling.

After planting, the plants are watered, tied to supports, the soil is mulched in the near-stem circle. Separately, I want to talk about mulching materials. It is very important to maintain a slightly acidic reaction in the soil, which is necessary when growing climbing roses. The following materials can maintain the level of acidity in the soil: high-moor peat, coniferous corners, cones, sawdust of coniferous trees. It is desirable that the soil always maintains acidity in the pH range of 6.2-6.5.

Caring for seedlings of climbing roses in the first year of life consists in uniform watering, weeding, loosening the soil crust and fertilizing. Particular attention should be paid to inspecting the bushes in extreme heat to identify diseases and pests.

Supports and stands for climbing roses

Stands for climbing roses can be made independently or bought ready-made. They can be made of metal, wood or other materials. But each of the materials has its drawbacks:

  • Metal supports are durable, easily painted in the desired color, but the parts buried in the ground are subject to severe corrosion, and the ground part in the summer (especially in the south) is so hot by the sun that it damages the shoots and flowers of climbing roses.
  • Supports made of wood — for these structures the scourge — biological decomposition. In wet ground, the legs of the supports quickly rot, and the top of the wood can crack under the influence of the sun and precipitation. Paint on wooden parts peels off quickly. It is better to use bamboo instead of wood.

Sometimes the supports are made of natural stone or plastic — each gardener selects a rose stand option that is acceptable for a particular garden landscape.

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